The fiber you put on a loom determines the weight, drape, texture, and durability of the finished cloth. This affects how the fabric behaves on the loom as well — some fibers are springy and forgiving, others stretch or break under tension if handled without care. Understanding the basic properties of wool, cotton, linen, and hemp before warping up saves considerable trouble and material.
Wool
Wool is the most forgiving fiber for beginning weavers. Its natural crimp gives it elasticity: if a warp thread is unevenly tensioned or a weft beat is inconsistent, the fiber adjusts slightly as the cloth comes off the loom and wet-finishes. This does not excuse careless weaving, but it does mean that early cloth is less likely to look noticeably uneven after washing.
The range within "wool" is considerable. Merino, with fibre diameters of around 15–20 microns, is soft against skin and suited to scarves and lightweight shawls. Border Leicester and Romney fleeces, with coarser fibre around 30–40 microns, produce cloth that is durable and holds structure — better suited for bags, upholstery fabric, and rugs. In Canada, wool is produced across the country, with notable concentrations of small farms in Ontario, Quebec, and British Columbia supplying fibre directly to weavers through markets and online storefronts.
Wool wets easily and felts if agitated in hot water during finishing. Most woven wool cloth is wet-finished by a careful hand wash in warm water with minimal agitation, then blocked and dried flat. This fulling process tightens the weave slightly and softens the surface.
Cotton
Cotton is a cellulose fibre and behaves very differently from wool on the loom. It has no elasticity — what you put on the loom stays at that length. This makes consistent tensioning more important, as uneven warp tension will remain visible in the finished cloth. Cotton is also heavier per unit volume than wool, which affects how the cloth drapes.
In terms of strength, cotton is reliable: it is harder to break during weaving than fine wool singles. Cotton warp is commonly used for tea towels, placemats, and yardage intended for clothing. The standard 8/2 cotton used in these applications (a two-ply yarn with a count of 8) is widely available from Canadian suppliers including Thalita Yarns and international distributors that ship to Canada.
Cotton takes dye well when treated with the correct mordant for cellulose fibres (tannin, alum, or iron) and is commonly used in projects requiring strong, flat colour. It does not bloom or shrink as dramatically as wool when wet-finished, though it does relax and soften with the first wash.
Linen
Linen is made from the stem fibres of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). It is considerably stiffer than either wool or cotton when dry, which can make it harder to weave comfortably — shuttles travel less smoothly in the shed, and the cloth builds up tension differently. However, linen becomes more pliable with use and washing, and finished linen cloth has properties that neither wool nor cotton fully replicate.
Linen is highly absorbent and dries quickly, which makes it well suited for kitchen and table textiles. It has a natural lustre and a characteristic cool hand — it feels cooler against skin than cotton at similar weights. With repeated use and washing, it softens considerably over time without losing structural integrity.
Linen is not widely grown in Canada commercially — most linen yarn available here is imported from Belgium, France, or Lithuania, where long-established flax processing infrastructure produces consistent quality. Wet-spun linen yarns are smoother than dry-spun and better suited to warp use; dry-spun linen, which has a more textured surface, is sometimes used as weft in combination with other fibres.
Hemp
Hemp fibre comes from the bast (outer stem) of Cannabis sativa plants cultivated for fibre rather than cannabinoid content. As a weaving fibre, hemp shares some properties with linen — it is strong, absorbent, and becomes softer with washing — but it is coarser in initial texture and somewhat less consistent in uniformity when processed for hand weaving.
Canada is one of the world's significant hemp-producing countries. Industrial hemp cultivation has been legal here since 1998, and several Canadian producers process fibre for textile use, though most Canadian hemp is sold for industrial and agricultural purposes rather than hand weaving. Weavers who specifically want Canadian-sourced hemp can find processed fibre through specialty fibre arts suppliers, though the range of weights available is more limited than for wool or cotton.
Hemp is often blended with other fibres — particularly linen or cotton — to balance its coarseness with better drape or to introduce colour. A hemp/cotton blend at 50/50 produces cloth that is strong, somewhat textured, and appropriate for bags, market totes, and similar utility items.
Choosing a Fiber for Your Project
A simplified starting framework:
- Scarves and wearables: Merino or fine wool blends; cotton at fine weights (10/2 or finer) for lightweight options.
- Kitchen and table textiles: Cotton or linen, alone or in combination. Linen adds absorbency and structure; cotton is more readily available at standard setts.
- Rugs and floor coverings: Heavy wool, cotton rug warp, or linen rug warp. These projects require a sturdy loom with sufficient warp tension.
- Utility bags and market totes: Hemp, linen, or hemp/cotton blends at sturdy weights.
The Handweaving.net database includes thousands of drafted patterns annotated with yarn type and sett recommendations, which is a useful cross-reference when selecting fibre for a specific draft.